This is largely because Ikaria is remote, and historically an island of exile until remarkably recently. Neglected by Athens for many years and ill-served by ferries, Ikaria was left to go its own way. Now, with an airport (thankfully not large enough for jets) and improved ferry and hydrofoil links, it is easier to reach; but the ‘away-from-it-all’ mood here will not, we hope, change too much.
Named after Ikarus, who flew too close to the sun and plunged into the sea here, Ikaria is 40 kms long but never greater than 8 kms wide. With Atheras soaring to over 1000 metres, this means some tortuous roads and dizzy drops, especially when crossing the island from the main port, Ayios Kirikos, in the south.
Our accommodation is close to the fishing village of Armenistis on the north coast, 57 kms from Ayios. With long white-sand beaches to the east and lush mountain behind, it is the prettiest seaside spot on the island, and the centre of what limited tourism there is. The village has just the right number of tavernas, cafés and small shops to give enough variety. More restaurants can be found above the beautiful sandy cove at Nas 3 kms to the west, which has the remnants of a Temple of Artemis behind. Armenistis has a small beach of its own but, apart from when the meltemi blows, most people head for long Livadi or Messakti beaches just outside the village.
The forest on the mountainside directly inland from Armenistis is a natural paradise, full of the sounds of birdsong, rushing water and rustling pines. It hides lakes, monasteries and traditional villages, four of which (collectively known as Rahes) have produced a 25 km walking trail which starts just behind Livadi beach – but try not to reach Christos before the afternoon as the locals sleep for much of the day!
There is limited public transport on Ikaria and taxis can be hard to find, so car hire is recommended (4wd if going much into the mountains) – there is a lot to explore. Excursions do run, subject to numbers; some by jeep or 4wd minibus.
Ikaria is famous amongst Greeks for its Panayiri’s (Saint’s Day festivals), natural beauty, local wine, fresh fish and sunsets. It is not famous at all elsewhere, which is why we would urge a visit to this magical, wild and quite unique island.
Painting with Paul
Of all the Greek islands, Ikaria is one of the most beautiful and offers a vast choice of subject. For this reason Paul Lewis has chosen Armenistis from which to lead painting weeks during May, June and September.
The cost is £150 per week on top of your normal holiday price, and covers 5 days per week for 3-4 hours each day. Suitable for artists of all levels (beginners are welcome), and also for those with non-painting partners as these are not group painting holidays – you are free to stay in any accommodation you choose, and there are no minimum numbers required.
Painting weeks will be starting 29th May; 5th, 12th, 19th June; 4th, 11th and 18th September. Please see our Painting in Greece page for further details.
