Paxos is literally covered with olive trees, and the oil is amongst the best you can find. Pines and cypresses also flourish, and lead down to the water’s edge.
Being so small, and such gentle wooded country, Paxos is a paradise for walking – particularly in the spring or early summer when countless varieties of wild flowers bloom. It is small enough to walk the length of in a day, and criss-crossed with hundreds of paths and tracks. Guided walks operate locally.
Despite its size there are over 30 beaches to choose from. Bar sandy Mogonisi most are small and of white pebbles which shelve gently into crystalline waters. Some can only be reached by small motorboat, easily rented and the best way to explore your local coastline. For sand, you have only to visit tiny Anti-Paxos a mile to the south, which has Caribbean-hued waters. Anti-Paxos is reached by small water-taxis which run frequently from Gaios and cost (last year) under £5 return.
The population of Paxos is about 2,500. Most live in the three main seaside villages of Lakka, Loggos and Gaios, the capital. Each has its own distinct character and charm.
Lakka is at the head of a wide bay and faces north to Corfu. Loggos is the smallest and prettiest of the three, with about 30 old houses clustered around the waterfront. Those choosing to stay close to the waterfront will be at the heart of village life here, which can be busy at night in season. Loggos has some excellent tavernas, a bakery and a few small shops. The nearest good beach (Levrechio) is a five minute walk around the headland.
Gaios is the capital. Although not large, it is the most cosmopolitan and popular with the yacht fraternity. It has an attractive flag-stoned square, plenty of cafés, a number of small bars and a good choice of restaurants. The view of Gaios’ pretty waterfront buildings from the island of Aghios Nikolaos across the narrow channel is little changed since Lear painted it in the 19th century.
Recommended Reading
Friends of the Ionian are offering an Island Information Pack. The Pack includes an “At a Glance Guide”, an island map, a self-guided trail and general information and costs £3.95. Please see the FOI website >
