Towers, caves and mulepaths of the Mani: 29 September – 11 October 2009
The Mani is a sea-swept peninsula in the Southern Peloponnese, stretching down from the rocky spine of the Taigetos mountain range to the southernmost tip of Balkan Europe. Terraced olive groves climb up to snow-capped peaks, and hidden coves offer secluded swims in both the Ionian and Aegean seas. In spring the mountains are carpeted with wild flowers, while in the autumn the mountains turn golden, contrasting with the stony grey of the tower houses which are particular to this region of Greece. Varied and often challenging walking combined with Byzantine chapels, classical remains and caves reveal a side of Greece which remains largely undiscovered.
Day 1
From Athens airport we have a 4 hour transfer to our hotel - a large international hotel situated on the southern side of Kalamata’s bay, without much character, but very comfortable and relaxing after a tiring journey.
Day 2
Short transfer to the start of our walk - a tiny village in the foothills below the Taigetos mountain range. Crossing the spectacular Koskarakas Gorge over an ancient stone bridge, we pass through the village of Kambos and climb up through flower-filled olive groves to the Frankish Castle of Zarnata, where we will have our first picnic. From there we head out towards the coast and the charming village of Kardamili, where we will stay in a family run hotel for 2 nights. (11 miles)
Day 3
Our second day’s walk sets off through the old fortified settlement of Kardamili, and continues up past the mythological tombs of Castor and Pollux to the pretty Byzantine chapel of Agia Sofia, with magnificent views down into the Viros gorge and over the glittering sea of the Messinian Gulf. From here we cross a deep wooded gorge to reach the village of Petrovouni, situated on a plateau studded with olive trees beneath the magnificent Mount Taigetos, and later eat our picnic lunch in the yard of a charming old church. Our walk back to Kardamili takes us on through Proastio, and down a steep rocky path back to the coast. (6 miles)
Day 4
We drive to the magical village of Milea, nestling in the foothills of Taigetos, and follow a dirt track south past an isolated farm, then on up tiny trails through pine forest - parts of which have been badly damaged by storms and a short part of which is VERY steep - to a remote alpine meadow, where we will have our packed lunch. Magnificent views across to both sides of the peninsula and back towards Mount Taigetos as we cross the 1,150m pass. The descent follows tiny and, for a while, steep goat trails, until we finally reach a dirt road that leads us past a deserted monastery near the village of Itylo and back towards civilisation...and the Deep Mani. Short transfer to our hotel on the coast, run by a charming Greek/Ethiopian couple, where we stay for 2 nights. (11 miles)
Day 5
We transfer back north to the tiny village of Hotasia, from where we follow a beautiful coastal route up on the cliffs past spectacular ruins to the tiny cove of Afyngia. We then head inland following a tiny cow path through spurge covered slopes to reach our picnic amidst the olive groves. The afternoon’s walk continues across this well-tended plateau past bee hives and finally steeply back down to the coast, where we finish with a swim just below our hotel. (8 miles)
Day 6
Today we have a leisurely start: leaving the fertile softness of the Outer Mani, we cross the gorge into the wilder Deep Mani and take the spectacular coastal path to Areopolis, aptly named “the city of wind. After a picnic lunch in a private walled garden, the afternoon is free to explore this unusual market village with its abundance of tiny chapels, cafes and excellent Byzantine museum. We stay here for 2 nights in a beautiful tower house hotel, and eat out in wonderful local tavernas. (4 miles)
Day 7
We drive a short distance south to the fascinating sea caves of Pirgos Dhirou - one of the many mythological entrances to the underworld, which we explore in small boats. From there we walk back to Areopoli and you have a chance to order your own lunch in one of the many tavernas here. Free afternoon to rest after a tiring few days, or for the more energetic there is the mountain above to climb! (3 miles)
Day 8
Leaving Areopoli, we transfer to a village further south on the olive-covered western plateau of the Deep Mani, we set off on foot to cross the rugged spine of Mount Sagias on an old smugglers’ path, passing en route remote shepherds huts and the ruined Doric temple of Aigla, where we eat our packed lunch. Leaving this ethereal setting behind, we descend past the deserted but fascinating monastery of Krounou to a tiny smugglers’ cove on the more cliffy east coast, from where we drive on to our beautifully situated hotel in the tiny fishing harbour of Gerolimenas, where we stay for 2 nights. (7 miles)
Day 9
We drive back to the northern side of Cavo Grosso, and walk out on a rocky spit to visit the remains of the sea-swept Castle of the Maina. In the afternoon, there is the option to follow narrow lanes down through the wild, open countryside so typical of the Mani, back to the bay of Gerolimenas, or else to go and relax on the terrace overlooking the sea. (9 miles)
Day 10
Today is one of the most exhilarating of the walk. We follow small mule paths up into the heart of the “Bad Mountains” to the village of Mountanistika (600m), and on over a magnificent ridge down into a hidden and surprisingly lush valley, where we have our packed lunch. In the afternoon, we continue over another rocky ridge to end up in the eerie tower house village of Lagia where we can have tea in a traditional cafeneion. From here we have a short drive with ever more dramatic views down towards the Cape to Porto Kagio, an even tinier fishing hamlet, where we stay for 1 night. (9 miles)
Day 11
Weather-depending, we follow either paths, or a rocky ridge to Cape Tenaron - the southernmost tip of the Mani peninsula, and indeed the Balkans. After enjoying our picnic at the lighthouse, we can explore the ancient ruins of the Laconian town (2nd century b.c.) and bathe in the azure water. (5 miles)
We then transfer to Gytheion, a charming harbour town of neoclassical buildings, where we enjoy a fresh fish dinner next to the water. (2 hours)
Day 12
We drive to Mystras, which nestles amongst orange groves beneath the Eastern slopes of Taigetos, and visit the Byzantine site. A short walk down a secluded valley after lunch brings us back to the village, where we stay in a simple hotel with garden and pool, and eat our last dinner in the square.
Day 13
We return to Athens by road. (4.5 hours)
General Information
In April , the weather should be fine, with an abundance of wild flowers - some quite rare, and for the brave there are several occasions to swim. However, being a mountainous peninsula - there is often still snow on the peaks of the Taigetos mountain range - it is worth being prepared for all conditions. If the weather does turn cold, the Greek hotels are not best prepared for warming us up, so bring a small bundle of warm clothes! In October, the light is wonderful - golden light on golden mountains, lots of autumn flowers, and warm sea. The terrain is very rocky, so boots are essential, and some of the paths can be quite overgrown with prickly undergrowth, so it is a good idea to have trousers to slip on over shorts if necessary. A small day pack is essential for carrying plenty of water and on a couple of occasions, a packed lunch. We eat in a mixture of local tavernas and the hotels themselves, none of which are formal.
Walking
The walking is quite demanding throughout - mainly because the paths are very rocky and require concentration to navigate! Parts of the walk are steep - both up and down, but we never go up or down more than 600 metres in a day. On most days, the walks can be divided up into sections, so that if you (or I) decide that a whole day is too much, then it is possible to join just the parts of the walk which suit your personal ability. You will only need to carry a packed lunch on one day.
Accommodation
As on any trip in a remote area, the standard of hotels does vary. I have chosen the best ones along our route, both in terms of comfort and originality, which does mean that in some cases we will have to transfer by vehicle to and from the walks.
Food and wine
We try to encourage our Maniot friends to give us “granny’s home cooking”, which will hopefully dispel the myth that Greek food is inferior in quality. We will endeavour to try out all the local specialities - be aware, however, that although we are near the coast, fish is not that readily available in the Mediterranean. We will only order it if it is absolutely fresh. We will also try out some interesting Greek wines, some of which are good enough - I think - to bring home!
Insurance
Please ensure that you have comprehensive insurance for every eventuality.
Visas etc
A valid passport is required. No visas, inoculations or vaccinations are required by citizens of the UK and Ireland for travel to Greece. It is advisable, however, to check with your doctor before departure. If you do not hold a UK passport, you must inform me of this fact when booking and contact the Greek embassy to see whether this is required in your case. It is your responsibility to to ensure that you have the correct and current visa documentation.
Cost
Money-wise, everything is included: i.e. all your meals (except for lunch on day 7) are paid for from dinner on day 1 until lunch on day 11, as well as wine with dinner. However, any extra pre-dinner drinks, ice-creams, coffees etc. are not. Greeks tend not to have coffee/tea after dinner - in fact you cannot usually get these in a taverna - so these are not included either. Entrance to Mystras, churches etc. whenever you are with ME are all covered.
Price of trip: £1,930 (single supplement of £220)
You will be able to book this trip through Sunvil, who is my agent in the UK - they ensure full AITO bonding and liability insurance and take credit cards.
Reading suggestions
Mani - Patrick Leigh Fermor (very erudite and detailed, so more interesting to read when you are THERE)
Deep into Mani - Peter Greenhalgh/Edward Eliopoulos (out of print, but a fabulous insight into the place - highly recommended)
The Greeks - James Pettifer (social critique of the culture, politics etc)
The Colossus of Maroussi - Henry Miller (if you can bear him!)
A Traveller's History of Greece - Timothy Botswain/Colin Nicholson
Please use the booking form specific to Walking with Anna to confirm a place.
